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Triking Alaska's
Dalton Highway
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March 2021
01 March 2021
Another month starts and so does a new project, sort of. Today we left our friends at Ducketts Mill Wines and Denmark Farmhouse Cheese, drove along the beautiful Scotsdale Road and began our trip to Queensland.
With our Border Pass into South Australia in place, and hoping that NSW and Qld will not see any more COVID cases, change their border crossing requirements or close their borders, we are heading to Winjana RV to get some work done on our home. So with our first decent road trip in nearly a year, we are back on the road, albeit in a dedicated trip.
After leaving Denmark it has taken us a couple of days to get back into the swing of being on the road, but like riding a bike, after a few wobbles, we soon remembered. With a plan of 500 plus kilometre days we made our way from Denmark and camped at the small settlement of Cascade. A quick (that's all it takes) look around at the few houses, school and sports oval, we made our way out of town for a few kilometres and after making our way along the narrow winding track, found a nice spot in the local nature reserve.
The nearby bush had been burnt quite badly recently so there was some photography to be had in the burnt out shell of what was there before.
Signs of new life after the fiery devastation.
A little bit of ICM (Intentional Camera Movement) provided an abstract photo.
02 March 2021
Rain overnight and a trip that must stick to the plan caused us to pack up around 2.30am to get off the dirt and onto firmer ground. Back a few kilometres at Ned's Corner Road was a gravel pit and so that became our second camp in the same night. Had we not been needing to be somewhere, we would have just stayed in the original camp and dealt with the results of the rain, but...not this time.
Waking to a almost clear morning we made our way along the back roads, eventually arriving at the Esperance to Kalgoorlie Highway at Grass Patch. Funnily enough, the trip to Grass Patch was fairly dry so there was no worries on the 30km's of dirt we had to negotiate.
Into Norseman from the South along a road we had not traveled since we cycled it back in 2001. Norseman was fairly quiet and so getting fuel, some food and some face masks (in case we need them in the other States), we made our way out onto the Highway and pointed the bonnet East.
The road was very quiet and that made travel very, very easy. The hardest part were the head winds courtesy of the high in the bight.
We arrived at our planned stop of the Baxter Rest Area to find only one other camper in. We took a spot out the back on some nice gravel and away from the highway.
Looking East along the 90 mile straight - I was hoping for the Belt of Venus in the sky, but cloud thwarted my plans.
As the last of the days light began to fade I spied this composition with the light illuminating the stump and surrounds.
And it wouldn't be the same without a pano of the same scene about 30 minutes later now would it?
03 March 2021
The wind remained overnight and we awoke to a cloudy, windy day. Leaving the camp we left the two backpackers and two caravans behind and headed off into the wind once more.
Passing along a very familiar road we noticed the changes, commented on previous trips and other memories. The roof near a water tank about 60 km's West of Caiguna where we have camped before, and sheltered under in 40 degree heat was now closed, the tracks in closed off with piles of dirt, and new tracks made around them.
Descending the escarpment at Madura we stopped to top up the tank before heading towards Eucla where we climbed back up the escarpment and some 12 kilometres later arrived at the WA/SA Border.
Passing through the border with absolutely nothing to stop us, the sign told us the COVID Border Crossing Check is actually at Ceduna! Imagine leaving WA and arriving at Ceduna only to be told there is a problem and that you cannot enter SA, even if you have already been there for the past 500 kilometres! Oh well.
Crossing the border meant the nice wide roads in WA were just a memory, especially the many nice new parts that have been done, and the narrow SA roads with a East/South East wind really came into play.
Joanne found a spot on the Bunda Cliffs that we had not camped at before, and so after negotiating the drop off from the highway and the narrow limestone track we found ourselves right on the cliffs with the whole place to ourselves. The Best View on the Cliff's was how someone described it, but ...while it was very nice, the quality is definitely a matter of opinion. But it was nice enough to give the camera some exercise. With no phone signal we had no idea of what was going on in the world, or what the weather forecast was, but we sure knew it was windy.
Sunlight sneaking out from behind the clouds to highlight the cliff face along Australia's Southern edge.
but wait, there's a different one to be taken as well
Despite the strong wind it was fun to stand and watch the light bounce around, and to grab a shot at different times
04 March 2021
Of course the wind was blowing very hard when we got there, and continued right to strengthen throughout the night. We awoke to a cloudy morning and no real sunrise, or so we thought. Then, just before we left, there was some nice views and photographs to be made.
With no real sighting of the sun to be had, rays were a good second prize.
then just before we headed off, and as the wind picked up
The wind picked up and a long exposure shot allowed me to capture the wind streaking across the water as the clouds closed in some more
Heading back out onto the fairly quiet highway we made our way along, battling the same annoying, fuel sapping wind. Passing the Nullarbor Roadhouse that was also very quiet, we continued on and then, as we closed in on the bush and the end of the treeless plain, there was a plague of locusts. Great swarms of these pests were on the road and in the air, smashing into our rig and leaving us covered in yellow splotches and mess.
Back into the bush as we made our way toward Yalata meant that the winds effect on our fuel economy was reduced, and driving was certainly easier. Passing the Aboriginal Community of Yalata we noticed that the old roadhouse had been pulled down and was no more, and so another Nullarbor experience is now just a memory.
Arriving in Ceduna we had our masks and SA Police Border Pass and ID ready, but on arrival all we had to worry about was the normal Quarantine Check, and that barely rated a mention as well.
Into town for some shopping and a fuel top up and then it was on down the highway to Wirrulla, where we pulled up a spot for the night in the community caravan park.
05 March 2021
After a pleasant night in the small town of Wirrulla we were back out onto the highway to find the wind had abated slightly, and our journey made a little easier by the trees and scrub along the sides of the road. We made good time and enjoyed some reasonable fuel economy as we made our way towards Port Augusta, and for only the second time in being here we passed right through, not even stopping for fuel. The only thing of note was the start of construction for a new road bridge between the old derelict on and the one currently in use.
Heading along the highway with all the traffic it was with pleasure that we turned off and headed up Horrock's Pass to Wilmington, where we had to wait for lunch to be over before being able to use the Post Office. So in the meantime, we had lunch as well.
Lunch over and mail sent we made our way towards Peterborough, but not before stopping at a rest area we have camped at previously, to see if the rainbow eucalypt was shedding it's bark and colourful enough for a photo, but it wasn't.
Arriving in Peterborough we set up camp at the 120hr free RV camp and settled in for the night with six others.
06 March 2021
After a pleasant night's sleep we awoke with foggy brains, due no doubt to jet lag courtesy of our bigger than normal days and a time change. We packed up, stopped for fuel and then headed out for what was to be a short day and a bush camp. But about 4 kilometres out we decided to go back and to take a day off, and so that is what we did. Took a day off, got the washing done and caught up on a few things.
Photographically, the last two days were a bust, but if there is no scene that moves you to make a photograph of it, then there's no photograph. And there's always tomorrow.
07 March 2021
Rested and ready to go (sort of) we made our way towards the NSW Border, stopping at a potential future campsite for a look and then continuing on. Traffic was reasonable and still a few caravans, campertrailers and motorhome's on the move, certainly enough to keep the wave finger happening.
Crossing into NSW at Cockburn, the site of the old Border Gate was not even a formality as we continued our way unhindered by any COVID checkpoints or other such things.
The open plains here were still just as vast, open and empty as the last time we passed this way. Not far out of Broken Hill we pulled up at the Thackaringa Rest Area where we managed to find about the only level spot there and settled in for the rest of the day as the wind blew quite strongly.
A short 500m walk up to the nearby hill revealed some photography compositions which I figured would be good at sunset, and a good campsite right on the top of the road cutting with 360 degree views. The only drawback was the cyclone that was passing through up there. Needless to say, we remained where we were, and overnight were joined by two other campers, and two trucks from Perth who came in around 3am.
This tree really stood out for a minimalist photo.
To see where it is and how I got this and the next few shots you will have to watch one of my photography videos.
The sun getting a hug from the tree.
Sunset.
08 March 2021
After our brief 3am truck wake up call we awoke to a cloudy day and some rain on the roof. Thanks to daylight savings, sunrise is around 7am and it's taking a bit of getting used to, especially after sunrise in Denmark around 5am!
We headed off into Broken Hill and topped up our fuel and food supplies before heading out of town. Our fuel spy app saving us some money by showing a fuel stop a street or two back from the highway, and where the owner reads the pump and rounds the 73 cents down to 70! I reckon he'd pump the petrol, wash the windscreen and check the oil and water too if you asked him.
Back out on the highway it was the same old routine, same views and same places, until we came to what used to be some old stone buildings just next to the highway on a corner, and opposite the railway. We had commented on these buildings a number of times before saying that they were a renovators delight, and they must have been. Someone has turned them into a flash looking resort and caravan park, (with resort prices) where a road and train noise powered sardine site costs only $40! No thank you.
On and on we went, seeing more and more goats along the roadside. Arriving at the Springs Hill Rest Area we looked to find a spot we liked, but then decided to move onto the Dolo Hill Rest Area because wikicamps said it has phone signal. Clouds were also on the move and built up as we drove.
Arriving at a small bitumen truck stop with a toilet, table and views we found a good spot out the back along the fence and after levelling up, settled in, joined later by an older couple in a caravan. Light rain also fell for a little bit, but not enough to do anything except make dirt on the rig dirtier.
Some nice colour in the sky at sunset.
A typical sand dune around here and just across the road from our camp.
09 March 2021
A peaceful night and we awoke to find a truck parked not far from us just as another pulled in and parked up. Rain was also falling as a very orange sun rose then slipped behind the low clouds after a very brief appearance.
By the time we were packed up there was only one truck left. Grey skies and light rain were the order of the day as we made our way along through very familiar, non descript territory populated by the goats.
Arriving in Wilcannia our stop consisted only of making our way around the back street to the cheaper fuel where we topped up with fuel before crossing the very low, weed choked Darling River and headed out of town. One day we will stop in the caravan park here and have a good look around.
With some good rain forecast along our way in the next few days, today's travel was going to be a rather big one again. We did however stop for lunch at a recently renovated rest area and also enjoyed the new bits of road as we made our way to Nyngan, where on arrival we found we were the only campers in the 24 hour rest area. The old rest area was right in the main street, but was rather small and a bit hard to negotiate, but, some smart person has moved it across the railway line to opposite the railway station. Not only is it easy to get in and out of, it cam accommodate quite a few rigs, and it has toilets and a dump point. Well done Nyngan.
10 March 2021
It was only 32 degrees yesterday but boy was it hot. Our spot in the Flood Memorial Park had some shade but it didn't help that much. It was hot enough for us to leave most of the windows and the main door open to aid the airflow. We felt quite safe with the security screen door locked and lights overhead.
We awoke to a sultry morning with an orange sunrise through the clouds. Heading out of town we came across a three car crash right on the crossroads where we were to turn off towards the town of Warren. Thankfully we were not needed as Police and Ambulance were in attendance. Glad to be off the main highway we enjoyed passing through open countryside and then the small, but pleasant looking town of Warren.
Heading out and towards Piliga the roads deteriorated and were narrow, very rocky, rolly with large potholes. Added to that the trucks were taking more than their fair share of the road. The sun was out again and the temperature gauge on the car said it was 32 degrees, but the sun coming through the windscreen was darned hot. There has been, or is a mouse plague through here, and what I thought was mud splotches on the road was in fact dead mice! The dead mice continued all the way from Warren through to Coonamble, and beyond.
Some time later, arriving in Piliga, home to some artesian baths and a free camp at the same spot, we were slightly surprised to see the place almost full of campers. Maybe they are holing up in anticipation of the huge rain forecast.
More bumpy, rocky rolly road and we were in Wee Waa. We made our way to the showgrounds and after talking to Brian the caretaker, took up a spot for the rest of the day. At $15 for power, water, toilets, showers and a free washing machine, it is good value.
There's a storm brewing over Wee Waa tonight.
Great looking clouds over the surrounding countryside.
And here comes the rain.
11 March 2021
Well the storm clouds rumbled and rolled past us last night but not much rain fell on us. We awoke to another warm looking day and after breakfast headed off for another days drive. The plan today was to head to the small NSW town of Yetman, not far from the Qld Border. The drive itself was rather uneventful, well with the exception of the bumpy, rocky, rolly roads.
The views however, were quite spectacular as we made our way up to and over the Killarney Gap, and with the recent rain through the area we were passing through bonnet high grass on the roadside, and even water across the road at the floodways as we made our way to the town of Bingara.
One of the pleasant scenes along the way to Bingara.
Along the way we decided to stop for a look at Rocky Gully, a popular spot with the locals apparently and so turned off the main road and headed down a rocky, bumpy track. At the end we found what would be a nice campsite or two, and, a river flowing over the rocks. So,after turning around and parking up it was time to spend some time making some photographs of the area.
One of the first views you get when you approach the river.
Looking from slightly to the right of the main view.
The fast flowing water from the waters edge with a 4000th of a second exposure.
A similar shot but with a 0.6 second exposure.
A closer shot of the water with a 1 second exposure.
Arriving in Bingara we remembered staying at the free camp on the river, but it wouldn't be a good plan today, especially with the river beginning to swell and the forecast of more rain to top up the 140mm they have already had on the way. We fuelled up and had lunch before continuing on.
Arriving in Yetman some time later we had the pick of the campsites. This small town, and I mean small, has a nice little camping spot where for $20, (it used to be $10), you get power, water, toilets, a rudimentary shower, a free washing machine, and a playground if you are so inclined,
We selected a good spot and settled in for the rest of the day, utilising the air conditioner to keep us cool from the hot sun, and oppressive humidity, before turning it off and opening up as the sun dropped to the horizon, and hundreds of bats flew overhead. Thankfully we missed out on getting bombed by the bats.
12 March 2021
Waking to another beautiful day we packed up and headed off once more, this time to cross the Qld Border and to get to our intended stop for a few days at Clifton, but not before making a nice photograph of the sun on the trees along the river behind our camp.
The sun rising and warming the beautiful tree's along the river behind our campsite.
The trip to Clifton was a fairly easy one. We crossed into Queensland with only a discarded COVID sign to be seen at Texas. Crossing the river and passing the freedom camp there with half a dozen campers in, we made our way out of the hills and into the slightly flatter country of the Darling Downs. Crops and volcanic red soil everywhere, it was nice to be back in the area, and the views.
Arriving in Clifton we made our way to the racecourse/showgrounds/sporting complex where there were quite a few campers in already. We were lucky to secure a good spot and quietly set up camp, disconnected the ute and settled in to reflect on the past twelve days, and to cast a thought to the next week, and even to where we will head to next.
We will sit here until Monday morning when we will make the short trip into Toowoomba to Winjana RV for the work on our van to commence. In the meantime we will take up residence in a nearby caravan park in one of their sea container cabins until our house is ready for travel again. It will be interesting to see what that is like.
23 March 2021
Our 55 km trip into Toowoomba was pretty uneventful, and we arrived ready to unpack the house. Putting our home in the shed at Winjana RV ready for the work to begin, we gathered up our things for a week and headed off to the Jolly Swagman Caravan Park.
Checking in we moved into our small home for the next week. A bit bigger than a sea container our cabin had a kitchen/dining/lounge room, bedroom with a queen bed, and an ensuite, so with the car parked outside the door next to the small verandah, we were set.
What followed were days of trips to Winjana to see how the repairs were going, a look around and even some photography. We also managed to catch up for lunch with Andrew, Pat and their daughter Alex and her children, friends that we had not seen for 19 years. A few days later we caught up with Alan and Kay, two of our nomad friends, at the very nice Picnic Point Cafe/Restaurant.
Fog and rain were the order of many of the days, and so photographic expeditions up to the memorial drive at Picnic Point occurred a number of times.
A quirky playground in the fog atop Picnic Point, Toowoomba.
So after week in the caravan park the repairs and general service to our 5th wheeler were almost done, and we moved back in, sleeping in the van onsite at Winjana for last and tonight while the tidy up and the final bits were done. Tomorrow should see us turning the wheels toward Clifton where we hope to site for a few days to plan our return trip to WA.
26 March 2021
Well the rain that was forecast so far hasn't even looked like arriving, but with the rivers everywhere running a banker, we are not going anywhere for a few days. We will check the state of the roads and hopefully they will open up fairly quickly so that we can get moving. But we are not holding our breath. Of course, we could not be in a better place, and have power, water and are on bitumen here and all for $10 a night. Love your work Clifton!
28 March 2021
We could have sat at Clifton forever, but with Qld starting to have another COVID problem, we decided that it was time to leave. Thankfully the problem is in Brisbane and nowhere near us. But our biggest concern now is if the cluster grows, and what the other States do with travellers from Qld. Add to that the number of roads that are closed following the recent deluge and life is getting interesting.
It seems that everywhere we want to go (Rocky Creek South of Bingara for instance) has water over the road and the road is closed, or the bridge is closed, or something else. So it looks like we are stuck on the main highways.
Leaving Clifton on a Sunday was nice, the road was quiet and we had no problems. Making our way to Leyburn, and then down to the highway, which was still reasonably quiet was easy.
We eventually stopped at the now closed roadhouse at Oman-ama. There is a gravel parking/rest area next to the buildings and despite being on a bit of a slope, we managed to level up and settle in. A few other travellers stopped to use the rather ordinary tin dunny, and the table under the small roof for a bite to eat,or a drink.
The plan for the next few days is to get to NSW and then slow down a bit, thus ensuring we put as much time between us and the COVID problem in Qld as this will ensure we don't have it, and, we have less problems for travel through NSW, SA and into WA.
29 March 2021
So after a quiet night at Oman-ama's "itybittytruckstop" as the sign described it, we made our way down the highway to Goondiwindi to top up with some food, and fuel.
Checking the livetraffic.com website, it appeared that the roads to Bingara are still closed to us, and that was disappointing as it is the easiest way into NSW via the small town of Texas. There is a 5 tonne limit on the bridge across the Dumareskq River, and because we are over that, we cannot go that way. If we could have, then another visit to Rocky Creek was definitely on the cards.
Shopping trip in Goondiwindi over we made our way across the recently swollen Macintyre River and into NSW. Of course the road conditions improved dramatically and the traffic was extremely light. We were making our way to the North Star Rest Area where we thought we might camp for the night. Added to that there is a road across to North Star, and on to the main road to Bingara. But, the North Star road is also closed! Oh well.
The North Star Rest Area is set back from the road a bit, bitumen and has some area out the back, so we pulled up in a nice level spot and settled in for the rest of the day.
30 March 2021
The North Star Rest Area makes for a good overnighter, but you wouldn't want to live there. We awoke to find a some trucks and eight campers. We left fairly early and watched the Belt of Venus come and go as the sun rose, and we made our way along the highway.
We stopped in Moree for breakfast and then, with the Gwydir Highway closed in both directions, made a call to the visitor information centre to see if there was a way around the floods. Well, as it turns out there was, and we found our way along a back road to the small town of Pallamallawa and back out onto the Gwydir Highway and then a short cut to Bingara through some very nice undulating countryside.
Arriving in Bingara we decided to check out the free camp other side of the river to where most people, including us, go. We arrived to find Colin and Jenny setting up camp, so stopped for a chat. Turns out this is also where other friends Alan and Kay were coming to. So we found a spot and set up as well. Alan and Kay turned up a bit later and we settled in to chatting and catching up.
31 March 2020
After a very quiet night we awoke to another nice day. Blue skies and a gentle breeze we were on a bit of a mission today to figure out why our house batteries were playing up. In the end we rewired the main feed from the battery to a larger diameter wire and did some other tests, but still couldn't put our finger on the problem.
Some new friends in Chris and Tony then turned up in their fiver and so we had four fivers' parked up, and then that evening we all met with John and Eileen (5er owners and now residents of Bingara) at the local RSL for a Chinese Food banquet, and of course lots of fifth wheel and living on the road talk.
Our camp not far from the river, and next to a green at the golf club.
The now dry main camping area with the campers. Our, less crowded spot is beyond the trees at the end.
The town of Bingara on the Gwydir River, and the free camp along the river.
Mark Twain once said "...years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do that by the things you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbour. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - and so we will.
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